How can I check if a car has been in an accident?

The most reliable way to uncover a car’s accident history is through a vehicle data check that pulls from insurance databases, write-off records, and DVLA-logged incidents.

These checks can expose what a seller might not disclose—or may not even know themselves.

In the UK, there’s no single free government service that reveals all accident history. The DVLA provides basic vehicle information—things like MOT status, tax details, emissions rating—but not crash data or insurance write-offs. That’s where paid services come in.

Companies like HPI Check, RAC Vehicle History Check, AutoTrader’s Check, and CarVertical provide detailed reports using the car’s registration number. These reports can show whether the vehicle has ever been declared a total loss, marked as Category S or N (structural or non-structural damage), or flagged with mileage tampering, theft reports, or outstanding finance.

Each provider has its own data agreements, so what’s shown can vary slightly. But they all pull from the MIAFTR database—used by insurers across the UK to log write-offs and serious damage claims.

While these checks aren’t free, they’re inexpensive compared to the cost of buying a car with hidden problems. Spending £10–£20 upfront could save you thousands—and plenty of stress—later on.

Inconsistent panel gaps, mismatched paintwork, or new parts in unexpected places can all suggest a car has been repaired after an accident.

While not every repair points to a serious collision, these clues are often overlooked by buyers focused on price and mileage.

Start with the outside. Walk around the car slowly, ideally in natural light. Look for subtle colour differences between panels—doors, wings, or bumpers that seem slightly off-tone. A quick respray can hide old damage, but blending rarely matches factory paint exactly. Pay attention to the spacing between panels too. Gaps that are wider on one side or slightly crooked can point to past repairs or poorly refitted parts.

Move inside. Check dashboard warning lights—especially airbag indicators. Make sure the seatbelts retract properly and aren’t frayed or unusually new. The cabin trim, particularly around pillars or footwells, may have been removed and replaced during airbag deployment or post-crash repair.

Finally, pop the bonnet. Uneven welds, scuffed bolts, or parts that look too new for the car’s age can suggest structural work. Any signs of impact near the chassis, radiator mounts, or suspension towers deserve attention.

No single issue confirms accident damage on its own. But when several small details don’t quite add up, it’s time to ask more questions—or walk away.

To uncover a car’s past, ask the seller directly if the vehicle has ever been involved in a collision, written off, or undergone major repairs—and pay close attention to how they respond.

A confident, documented answer is often more revealing than the words themselves.

Start with the obvious: “Has the car ever been in an accident?” If the seller hesitates, downplays it, or responds vaguely (“not that I know of”), that’s your cue to dig deeper. Ask whether there are any insurance claims on record, or if the vehicle was ever classified as a Category S or N write-off.

Request to see the service history and any receipts for repairs or paintwork. Genuine repairs from reputable garages should come with paperwork—and a seller who’s upfront will usually be happy to provide it. If there’s mention of replaced parts (panels, airbags, bumpers), ask what caused the damage. The more detailed and consistent their answers, the better.

Be wary of sellers who say, “It was just cosmetic” or “It wasn’t reported to insurance.” While that might be true, it also means the damage could be undocumented—and possibly unresolved.

Finally, trust your instincts. If the seller is evasive, dismissive, or unwilling to answer reasonable questions, walk away. There are always other cars—but you only need to buy one with hidden issues to wish you’d asked more upfront.